The Enlightened Traveler: A Paris Institution Returns

Ladurée, the historic Parisian patisserie and tea room, suffered a disastrous fire in 2011 that caused the landmark to close for a year. It has just reopened, it's 19th-Century opulence fully restored and good as new, according to press reports.

Some years ago, The Luxurist and his Lovely Luxurista arrived in Paris on Christmas Eve, two weary pilgrims without a dinner reservation.

Summoning up his flawless French, he called several of his preferred restaurants only to learn that they were fully booked.

(Yes, The Luxurist speaks French impeccably. Doesn't everyone?)

Normally in a situation like this, The Luxurist would follow his own advice:  keep talking politely but firmly until the voice on the other side of the aparatus gives in. It turns out that French restaurateurs can be an uncompassionate lot on Christmas Eve, a day when you think even the French would be a bit more accommodating.

But I digress.

And so The Luxurist and his LL decided to head out on foot in search of a meal. They were soon on the Champs Elysées in front of Ladurée.

It was far past afternoon teatime. The Luxurist and his LL stepped inside anyway to find many well dressed and very contented Parisians sitting down to, not petit fours and chocolat chaud, but, in fact, dinner.

Mr. L and Mrs. LL were seated next to a handsome French couple. The husband told them that he was executive chef for Air France first class and that he and his wife came to Ladurée every Christmas Eve.

Thus they began a memorable night of good food and pleasant conversation.

Also read: Why You Should Spend the Holidays in Paris

While Ladurée's premises have been refreshed, not so its unfortunate reputation as a tourist destination during the day.

I use the term "tourist destination"  to be kind.  You, dear reader, can divine the true meaning of the term.

But, again, I digress.

At night, it's a different story.  If you find yourself in Paris with no dinner plans and no concierge at your service,  you might give Ladurée a try.

Little Luxuries: Thanksgiving Leftovers

The Luxurist likes a hearty Thanksgiving meal as much as the next sybarite.

What to do with the leftovers the day after is the challenge. Turkey hash? Turkey and cranberry sandwiches? Well, yes.

Something different and interesting would be welcome, as well.

Marc Murphy, chef and owner of the Landmarc restaurant in New York's Time Warner Center, rises to the occasion with these creative suggestions that first appeared in a recent Wall St. Journal article:

• Turn gravy, mashed potatoes and turkey into a shepherd's pie. Top it with shaved gruyere for an "extra kick."

• Combine mashed potatoes with any kind of cheese. Form croquettes and roll them in panko crumbs before frying. Serve with turkey gravy "jazzed up" with dijon mustard.

• Fill tartlet shells with leftover cranberry sauce topped with Italian merinque.

Chef Murphy cautions that leftovers must be stored correctly. Do not put sealed-up warm food into the refrigerator because of the risk of bacteria build up.

Leave it out until it cools before wrapping and putting it into the fridge. Or place it uncovered in the fridge and cover it after it has cooled.

The Luxurist bids epicureans across the land a joyful holiday.

Best London Restaurants That Won't Break The Bank

Tom Parker Bowles – yup, the son of that Parker Bowles – has earned a reputation as one of Britain's leading food authorities.

He writes a food column for The Mail on Sunday, is the food editor of Esquire's UK edition, and has written several cookbooks.

Bowles also serves as food curator at Heckfield Place, a manor house that is undergoing refurbishment and will open as a conference center in 2013.

The Luxurist wonders, "Exactly what kind of job is that?"

But I digress.

His credentials as a culinary maven notwithstanding, it is clear that young Bowles is not what could be called a "man of the people."

Corned (or salt) beef is one of the best dishes in Britain! (Photo: Ewan Monro)

That is why The Luxurist was stunned to read a recent Departures magazine article in which the stepson of the future King of England offers advice on where to find good corned beef in London.

Not just corned beef, mind you, but also lox, American barbecue, jerk chicken, Punjabi meat curries, and deviled kidneys.

And all this time The Luxurist was led to believe that the action on the British food scene revolved around refined, updated interpretations or inspired, unorthodox reworkings of traditional dishes, using locally produced, artisinal, or foraged ingredients – and only those in season, of course.

In the article Bowles declares that "for me, London’s joy is tramping the back alleys and byways in search of real food and serious eating."

Kerbisher & Malt calls itself a "modern British fish and chip shop." (Photo: Rebecca Reid)

By this he means joints "where you’re lucky to get a paper napkin, let alone a linen one, places where menus are chalked on boards rather than embossed on stiff cards."

He concludes with, "I want flavors, bold and pungent, with no concession made to timid tongues and wary palates." 

The Luxurist can relate. He may not be an average Joe, but he sure can appreciate a moderately priced tasty curry as much as the next guy.

The Luxurist also enjoys dining at upscale reasonably priced restaurants. So does Bowles. He  includes several in his article on London eateries that go easy on the wallet.

To see where you should take dinner when you cannot get into Heston Blumenthal's place, review all of Bowles's recommendation right here.

The Artful Traveler: Matisse's Inspired Chapel

Though produced by a very old man who was mortally ill,
they seem to come from the springtime of the world.
        – John Russell, on Matisse's paper cut outs 

In 1947, around the time he published Jazz, his famous book of paper cutouts,  Henri Matisse began work on what was to become his other great late-in-life masterpiece, the Chapelle du Sainte Marie du Rosaire in Vence, in the south of France.

Matisse lived in Vence from 1943-1949 and designed the chapel, along with all of its decor, liturgical objects, and priestly vestments, at the request of Sister Jacques-Marie, who had been his nurse when he was ill in 1943 and later became a Dominican nun.

The chapel opened in 1951 to not uniformly approving reviews.

Matisse laid out the space as a simple rectangle. Though he was a master colorist, the artist specified white walls for both the exterior and interior.

Inside, the only color comes from the chapel's signature feature, a series of 15 arched floor-to-ceiling stained glass windows in hues of blue, yellow, and green. They line two walls and fill the simple, sacred space with glorious yet soothing light.

The effect creates a sense of serenity, clarity, and peace of mind. If this doesn't calm you down instantly, then nothing will.

Matisse said that he chose yellow a as symbol of the sun and heavenly light; green of plant life and the earth; and blue of the sky, the sea and the Madonna – perhaps the very same expression of springtime as the one Russell observed.

A vivid blue tile roof provides the sole splash of color outside. Look for it if you are driving to the chapel.

Try to time your visit for late afternoon, when the tourist coaches have departed and the chapel is blissfully devoid of the hordes of gawkers that can turn even the most sacred site into a sideshow of shorts, sandals and snotty striplings.

If you have ever been to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher in Jerusalem, you will know what The Luxurist means.

But I digress.

Vence's historic center

The Rosaire Chapel is perched on a hillside a few minutes from the center of Vence, a small, unremarkable village inland from the sea and situated about midway between Cannes and Nice.

There's not much else to do in Vence.  If you have the time, you can spend a pleasant hour strolling through the town's medieval center. The main reason to visit is to see the Rosaire Chapel.

If you go, The Luxurist advises you, beloved Artful Traveler, not to confuse Vence with the more famous, nearby St. Paul de Vence, a charming medieval hilltop fortress village with a great deal more to recommend it.

And that is the topic of a forthcoming article.

This Just In: Tesla Model S. "The car is dope."

The all-electric high-performance Tesla Model S is finally here, and The Luxurist cannot wait to own one.

But bide his time he must, as production delays have put deliveries four-to-five weeks behind schedule.

There is also the matter of the nearly $100,000 price tag. But I digress.

Why is The Luxurist so enthused about this grand new conveyance? He has read the advance reviews. They have been rapturous.

Automotive writers are saying that the sedan surpasses expectations in handling, engineering, acceleration, styling, and just about any other criterion imaginable.

"The is one amazing car. I mean, hardcore amazing" wrote the Wall St. Journal's great Dan Neil. "The car is dope." So much for understatement.

Neil compared the Tesla's acceleration to that of a Lamborghini – minus the potent snarl of the Lambo's legendary V12 engine. (Sadley, electric cars don't purr, they whine.)



The Model S comes with three battery options:  40kWh (with a 160 mile range), 60kWh (230 miles), and 85 kWh (a record-setting 300 miles).

Acceleration varies with the price, which starts at an affordable $49,900 and  rises to $97,700 for the Signature Performance model. This is more or less what you would have paid for a decent two-bedroom condo in Palm Springs last year before the real estate market started to rebound.  But, once again, I digress.

The premium SP model is powered by a rear-mounted 416-horsepower AC synchronous electric motor producing 443 pound-feet of torque between zero and 5,100 rpm. If that means nothing to you, this will: the car goes from zero to 60mph in 4.4 seconds. Fast, if not exactly furious.

Want to know how the car handles? Apparently very well, despite, or  because of, a very low center of gravity caused by the under-the-floor placement of its heavy batteries. "The Tesla corners like it's tethered with magic," writes Neil.

Worried about the time it takes to recharge? The SP package is equipped with a high-capacity drive inverter and twin 10-kilowatt-hour charging inverters. This allows for rapid charging in about four hours. (Not that you will want to stay away from your Model S for that long)

Looks-wise, the Model S is a stunner. Sleek and low to the ground, it will turn heads.

"What is that magnificent car?" people will want to know. "And where do I get one?"

You, dear reader, can buy yours right here. Or maybe at Nordstrom?

When A Deal Is Not a deal. And When It Is.

The Luxurist takes great pleasure in notifying his readers of good buys on noteworthy goods and services.

Nonetheless, he has never written about the so-called bargains served up by Groupon, LivingSocial, and the seemingly endless parade of other daily deal websites.

Deal.                                                                        No deal!

That is because he is disdainful of the majority of their offerings, most of which amount to a reduced price on – how to say it politely? – dreck. The Luxurist firmly believes that there is no point in saving money on inferior quality or on something he would not buy in the first place.

After all, how many Brazilian blowouts and pole dancing classes does one really need?

But I Digress.

There's a first time for everything.

Today we draw your attention, beloved reader, to attractive deals at two celebrated Los Angeles restaurants. Forgo them to the detriment of your palate and pocketbook.


Chinois on Main Prix Fixe Dinner for Two, $110 

Wolfgang Puck's second restaurant was an early pioneer in bringing a lighter, contemporary approach to Asian cuisine.

While it has been around nearly 30 years, it's still in top form today. In fact, over all that time, The Luxurist has never had anything less than a delicious, memorable meal there.

The signature dishes, including the Chinois Chicken Salad and Whole Sizzling Catfish, continue to be pretty fabulous.

The decor by Barbara Lazaroff was a stunner when the restaurant opened in 1983. It's just as fresh, vibrant, and appealing today. (Can you say that about yourself, dear reader?)

And can you think of another fine dining establishment that has had only one manager over a 30-year period? (The Luxurist cannot.) Bella Lantsman will greet you warmly at the door and see to your every wish.

As at all of Puck's eateries, you will be well treated by the management and staff whether or not they know you, and even if you have – we shudder to say – a coupon. No attitude here. That and consistently tasty and elegant contemporary food are Puck's hallmarks.

The place is often packed and hard to get a table on many nights. Lord knows why they are offering a three-course prix fixe meal for two for just $110?

But they are. The smart thing to do is snap this deal up right away. It's on Bloomspot.


Jar Prix Fixe Dinner for Two $115, Including Cocktails

Here's an even better deal on an equally fine dinner.

Jar on Beverly Blvd. is nominally a steakhouse – it calls itself a "chop house" – but intensely satisfying melt-in-your-mouth pot roast has been their specialty since 2001.

(Your grandmother's pot roast should only be as good as the one chef-owner Suzanne Tracht makes.)

If your big hat has gone to your head, then try their prime rib-eye, 28-day dry aged prime Kansas City steak, or the prime skirt steak.

This last cut is The Luxurist's personal favorite. Very little in life is more soul satisfying than the flavorful, chewy magnificence of a properly grilled skirt or hangar steak. Again, I digress.

The prix fixe Fall menu comes with a choice of Jar's pot roast or roasted sea bass,  soup or an endive salad, and either roasted apple bread pudding or pumpkin creme brulee for dessert.

Coffee or tea is include and so is a Jar Mai Tai or Ruby Margarita for openers. Sweet!

Grab this one now and plan to go when the weather turns cool. It's at Gilt City LA.

We're Not Making This Up: Caring For Blue Jeans, The OCD Way

The Luxurist was  surprised to learn that the pros don't throw their dirty blue jeans in the washer and dryer, as we mere luxurists  do.


These care tips, from Carl Chiara, a Levis executive, appeared a while back in The Wall St. Journal:

• Rarely wash them, and never in a washing machine. That causes the cotton fibers to bloom and then tense up. (Tense jeans, that's a no-no!)
• Tossing them in the dryer will shrink and fade your jeans. (This part, we understand.)
• Never dry clean your jeans. It makes them stiff.
• Spot clean with a sponge, as necessary. (A clean sponge, of course. Not the one you use to wipe down your kitchen counters. But you knew this already.)
• Every six months, lay them flat in a tub with about six inches of room temperature water and a couple of teaspoons of mild liquid soap.
• Add about one-eighth cup of white vinegar to set the color and prevent fading
• Soak for 20 minutes. Do not agitate. (We repeat: do not agitate!)
• Dry flat. When almost dry, put them on and sit in the sun so the jeans take on the shape of your body.
• At the end of the day, hang your jeans by their belt loops.

Who knew!